Walking the Via Micaelica, from Benevento to Monte Sant’Angelo, was one of the most rewarding travel experiences I’ve ever had.
This ancient pilgrimage route in southern Italy offered everything I love in a journey: challenge, beauty, solitude, and the deep satisfaction of meeting each day’s adventure on foot.
The Challenge Begins: Benevento to Buonalbergo
Our pilgrimage began in Benevento, heading east toward Buonalbergo, a stage that quickly reminded us that the Via Micaelica isn’t a simple stroll. The heat was relentless, the terrain demanding, and those last uphill miles tested every bit of endurance we had.
Vicki joined us for that first day before deciding her new role as our “scout” suited her best — driving ahead to explore each upcoming town. It turned out to be a perfect balance: she led the way, while Katie and I continued walking, enjoying the rhythm of the trail.
That first evening in Buonalbergo was magical. After a long day, we were rewarded with a stunning sunset over the town’s rooftops. Watching the sunrise the next morning, I felt both exhausted and deeply content, the kind of peace only a long day’s walk can bring.
Meeting the Locals on the Via Micaelica
One of the biggest surprises along the Via Micaelica walking route was how few other pilgrims we encountered. In fact, we met only three other walkers during the entire journey! Still, the evenings were full of friendly encounters.
Locals were incredibly welcoming. Farmers often paused their work to chat or offer directions. Even though few spoke English, kindness and patience filled any gaps in translation. Many seemed genuinely curious about us, perhaps they hadn’t seen travelers on foot in a while.
It’s one of the charms of walking through rural Italy: the slower pace invites genuine connection.
Food, Lodging, and the Simple Joys of Pilgrimage
Our accommodations along the Via Micaelica were consistently excellent. The hosts were generous, the meals delicious, and each night’s rest felt like a small luxury after hours of walking.
By the second half of the journey, we had settled into a comfortable rhythm: walk, eat, rest, repeat. My daily supplies were simple but perfect: bread, cheese, and water. I developed a particular fondness for caciocavallo cheese, whose salty richness seemed to taste even better after a long day’s hike.
Navigation and Route Finding on the Trail
We relied heavily on a GPS app to navigate the Via Micaelica trail, and it proved to be a lifesaver. The guidebook was helpful as a backup, but the app kept us on track more than once.
Whenever we had a choice between routes, we almost always picked the longer one. That usually paid off with better scenery, except for one misadventure descending into San Marco, where we found ourselves hacking through scrub until a friendly burro appeared, as if sent to lead us safely down.
Festivals, Weather and Trail Life
We were lucky enough to encounter two local festivals: one on our first night and another on our last. They brought color, music, and laughter to our evenings and gave us a glimpse into local life.
The weather cooperated throughout the trip, our gear held up well, and the walking became both meditative and invigorating.
By the end, I found myself savoring the simplicity of it all: the quiet roads, the occasional village, and the sound of my own footsteps echoing through the hills of Puglia.
Reflections on Walking the Via Micaelica: A Spiritual Awakening
I want to share something deeply personal that came to me during this journey, a spiritual insight that answered a long-standing question weighing on my heart.
Back home in the US, I’ve been troubled by the growing political and social divisions, splitting families, friends, even strangers. Talking and debating often felt fruitless or even made things worse. I didn’t know how to reconcile these differences without avoiding people or creating more distance.
On this pilgrimage, it became clear to me that we all share a common enemy: fear. It’s an ancient adversary, and it’s fitting that our journey ended in Monte Sant’Angelo, dedicated to Archangel Michael, who famously fought evil.
Fear divides us because many embrace it, allowing it to control their actions, thoughts, and decisions. It’s at the root of every bad choice and conflict. The opposite of fear is love, and this is the original battle between good and evil, playing out every day in our lives.
The answer to dealing with division is love, not fear. If we recognize that fear is our true enemy and refuse to embrace it, perhaps we can start healing those rifts. Our differences become strengths when we act together out of love, not fear.
This insight felt like a message from God on this pilgrimage: simple but powerful. We are more alike than different, and love is the only way forward.
Best regards, peace be with you,
Terry
