Along trails by the sea, villages frozen in time, and authentic flavors, Salento reveals itself step by step. A slow journey to discover the soul of a generous and welcoming land.
"Salento cannot be explained. Salento must be experienced, because it gets into your soul, wraps around you, and never lets go."
(F. Caramagna)
Four days on foot from Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca, in the heart of Salento, can change the way you see a territory. Not just a simple trek: it is a slow journey crossing stories, traditions, scents, and landscapes. It is an invitation to slow down, observe, and listen.
I took part in the Salento Outdoor Fest, an event dedicated to slow and sustainable tourism that celebrates the beauty of Salento to be lived slowly. Together with other people passionate about walking and nature, I walked from Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca, covering part of the Cammino del Salento and The Southern Via Francigena. An intense and authentic experience, which I want to share with you day by day.
Day 1 - From Otranto to Uggiano la Chiesa
Our journey begins in the best way: after sipping a Lecce-style coffee, we take our first steps in the historic center of Otranto, among the still quiet alleys of the city.
We resume walking and after a few kilometers, we unexpectedly find ourselves in front of a contemporary art installation: Maurizio Buttazzo’s "door" metaphorically represents the meeting of different worlds, an ideal gateway between cultures, religions, and languages that have intersected for centuries on the coasts of Salento. It is an invitation to overcome borders—geographical and mental—and embrace diversity. In the context of our journey, the work becomes a symbolic threshold: entering a new dimension made of slowness, listening, and transformation.
Continuing along the trail, we reach one of the most spectacular places of the entire route: the Bauxite Quarry (a mineral from which aluminum is extracted, which is why this quarry was heavily exploited until 1976). Today it looks like a place out of a dream: red earth, emerald green lake, lush nature all around.
After the must-have ritual photos, we head towards our final destination of the day. Before arriving, however, we visit a 16th-century underground olive mill, an ancient facility for oil production carved underground. Contrary to what one might think, the oil was not produced for food use, but as lamp oil for lighting, and from Gallipoli, Puglian oil was transported throughout Europe. Today, however, in Borgo Mulino a Vento, extra virgin olive oil is produced, so we couldn’t miss tasting the different types of oil produced.
Finally, we arrive at Masseria Gattamora in Uggiano la Chiesa where we will spend the night. Here the exhibition Don’t play with food by artist Alessia Rollo is also set up (who among you hasn’t been scolded at least once in life with: Don’t play with your food?). The evening ends beautifully with the energy of Le Cumbinate, a group of women whose music completely overwhelms us, despite the tiredness.
Day 2 - From Uggiano la Chiesa to Vignacastrisi
Our day begins in the center of Uggiano la Chiesa at Panificio Biscottificio Corvaglia, a real institution here: three generations keep Salento’s traditional recipes alive. Alongside bread, we are welcomed with friselline, taralli, biscuits, focaccia, and the essential pasticciotti with cream, perfect for breakfast. Soon after, we depart and walk among dry stone walls and olive trees, reaching Torre Sant’Emiliano, an ancient watchtower overlooking the sea from a spectacular promontory. Here we enjoy a special break: an excellent tasting of local cheeses from Caseificio Torre S. Emiliano (highly recommended!) with a sea view.
The journey continues along a panoramic path to the beautiful Porto Badisco, a small jewel in the middle of nature: according to legend, it was here that Aeneas landed fleeing Troy, thus beginning his journey that would lead him to found the Roman lineage. At Porto Badisco, we stop for lunch at the legendary Bar da Carlo, famous for its sandwiches. In the afternoon, we reach Vignacastrisi, where a moment I will remember for a long time awaits us: a show cooking at Osteria La Corte degli Ulivi. Eating freshly made pittule, mozzarella knots, and orecchiette was priceless.
Day 3 - From Andrano to Tricase
The third day of our Salento walk begins at the 17th-century castle in the village of Andrano. We are still inside the Regional Natural Park Costa Otranto–Santa Maria di Leuca, a protected area established to preserve one of the most beautiful coastal stretches in Puglia. We leave the village streets and start walking towards the coast. Just as the sun begins to beat down on our heads, the marvelous Grotta Verde opens before us. We can’t resist: it’s the perfect moment for a swim!
We resume the path and follow an ancient tratturo (a historic path used for transhumance, the seasonal movement of livestock), a tiring but beautiful experience! We then head to Gli Orti di Peppe, a farm that is a small world of biodiversity and peasant tradition. Peppe welcomes us with a smile and tells us about his cultivation philosophy: organic fertilizers, respect for the soil, seasonal rotations, and lots of passion. In his fields grow the white cicoria of Tricase, the pastinaca of Sant’Ippazio, tomatoes of every shape and color. For the first time in my life, I taste white mulberries freshly picked from the tree. While Peppe tells stories of his gardens, we refresh ourselves with some cocomero (spoiler: it’s not cucumber nor watermelon!) which I later learn has many names depending on the area: menunceddhra, cucumarazzo, cuccummaro... Peppe defines it as an “unripe melon!”
We say goodbye to Peppe and set off again towards Tricase, crossing sunny fields, caper bushes, and blooming prickly pears. Along the way, we find St. John’s wort, a medicinal herb that grows spontaneously in these areas and is then turned into beneficial St. John’s wort oil, useful against anxiety and stress. Finally, we arrive in the center of Tricase, where a final surprise awaits: a visit to the Bottega Ceramica Branca, a small artisan workshop where we immediately get our hands dirty (or rather... in the clay!). Tricase and the Gallipoli-flavored gelato from the historic Martinucci gelateria win me over immediately. And once again, we feel exactly where we should be.
Day 4 - From Tricase to Santa Maria di Leuca
The last stage of our Salento Outdoor Fest takes us from Tricase to Santa Maria di Leuca. We leave early in the morning after a lavish breakfast under lemon trees at our B&B Rosa dei Venti, ready to immerse ourselves in the last part of our journey. We walk the Sentiero delle Cipolliane, one of the most suggestive stretches of all Salento, which leads us to its caves carved into the rock and overlooking the sea. We take part in a photographic activity with our Alessia Rollo, trying to capture all the beauty around us... which never lacks here!
We then head to Baia del Ciolo (what wonderful water!) where we challenge ourselves with a short sport climbing experience with the guys from Sud-Est Climb. Climbing those rocks was not easy at all, but at least I can say I tried!
The kilometers that separate us from Santa Maria di Leuca, also known as Finibus Terrae (= the end of the earth), are intense. Santa Maria di Leuca has been for centuries the final point for those who wanted to continue the pilgrimage to the Holy Land. Before leaving from Brindisi, pilgrims had to stop here to pray to the Madonna of Leuca, protector of travelers and sailors.
We are almost at the end of this journey and my mind is filled with a mix of happiness for having reached the goal and a little melancholy because from tomorrow I will no longer be with my traveling companions, I won’t eat freshly fried pittule anymore, I won’t see the sea anymore.
I stamp my pilgrim’s credential.
I look at the horizon, here where the land ends and the sea seems infinite. This land has welcomed me with open arms these days: the scent of the sea, the clear sky, the warmth of the people. I listened to stories, danced among olive trees, picked fruits along the path. I arrived at Finibus Terrae with a certainty: a piece of me will stay here.
Thanks to Slow Active Tour for making me part of this experience.
Written by Crisula Barbata.
For further insight, you can read the original Crisula's article here.